{"id":2428,"date":"2019-07-07T16:36:30","date_gmt":"2019-07-07T16:36:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/?p=2428"},"modified":"2022-09-12T08:53:35","modified_gmt":"2022-09-12T12:53:35","slug":"varroa-mites-treatment-guide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/varroa-mites-treatment-guide\/","title":{"rendered":"Varroa Mites: A Complete Treatment Guide"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"last-modified\">Updated on September 12th, 2022<\/p>\n<p>Varroa mites are a major threat to the health and survival of your honey bees.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-flow wp-block-group-is-layout-flow\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container\">\n<p>In this article, we&#8217;ll explain what new beekeepers should know about Varroa including:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li> how to monitor infestation levels, and <\/li><li>your chemical and non-chemical treatment options for managing Varroa as part of an Integrated Pest Management (\u201cIPM\u201d). <\/li><\/ul>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Some beekeepers define treatment as any manipulation of the colony to manage Varroa, chemical or not. For our purposes, we are using a narrower meaning: treatment is the use of chemicals whether synthetic or organic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Varroa Destructor Mites<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The aptly named <strong>Varroa destructor mite<\/strong>, which appeared in the United States in 1987, is a parasite that attaches itself to the honey bee brood and adult bees. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Varroa mites feed on the host leading to varroosis, a parasitic disease. Varroosis weakens the bee\u2019s immune system making it more susceptible to other diseases and viruses. Varroa aid the spread of disease as they move around the colony.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A female Varroa mite is large enough to be seen by the naked eye at about 1.0 to 1.5 mm across and has eight legs. (To see its legs, you&#8217;ll need some magnification.) Reddish-brown in color, they look to me like a darkly rusted pinhead. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Impact Of Varroa Mites On Bee Colonies<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Varroa can devastate your honey bee colonies. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/pollinator.cals.cornell.edu\/sites\/pollinator.cals.cornell.edu\/files\/shared\/documents\/2018%20NYS%20Beekeeper%20Tech%20Team%20Report_accessible.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" class=\"rank-math-link\">The 2018 NYS Beekeeper Tech Team Report (available here)<\/a> says that 61% of colonies sampled indicated a mite infestation level that requires &#8220;immediate treatment to prevent colony death\u201d. It also says, \u201cVarroa mite levels are a significant predictor of winter loss in New York State.\u201d In the 2016 report, the survey sample indicated 90% of colonies had Varroa.  <strong>The presence of Varroa is nearly universal among bee colonies.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote\"><p>There is no Varroa in Australia or Antarctica (as of now). If your apiary is in Antarctica, please send pictures!<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p>No magic bullet eradicates Varroa.  Most commercial beekeepers use some form of chemical treatment to keep the mites in check because of their potentially dire economic impact; however, a significant percentage of backyard beekeepers report using no treatment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote\"><p>Note: Other types of mites than Varroa threaten honey bees such as tracheal mites. For our purposes here, all references to mites mean Varroa.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Varroa Mite Life Cycle<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>A basic understanding of the varroa life cycle helps you understand how an infestation can grow rapidly and overwhelm a colony.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A female varroa mite has <strong>two phases in its life cycle: the phoretic phase,<\/strong> where she attaches herself to an adult bee, <strong>and a reproductive phase<\/strong> within a brood cell.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Phoresis is when an organism attaches itself to a host temporarily for the primary purpose of transportation. Female Varroa mites hitch rides on adult bees to travel within a hive and among colonies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>After a short period, the phoretic mite drops into an uncapped brood cell. Once the cell is capped, the mite attaches herself to the larva and begins to feed and lay eggs. One egg develops into a male mite (for mating purposes) while the rest are females. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>When an adult bee emerges from the cell, the adult female mites come out with her to infect other bees or larvae. The male mite dies in the brood cell when the nurse bees clean it out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>More mites can reach maturity in drone cells than in worker cells because of the more extended development period of drones. Thus, more drone brood likely leads to higher mite counts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Developing in brood cells means the Varroa population grows in concert with the bee population. With multiple eggs being laid in brood cells the Varroa infestation rate is exponential making it particularly dangerous to the colony. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Weakened by the mite, a bee becomes more susceptible to\nviruses that may be present in the colony. The mite can also spread these\nviruses (such as Deformed Wing Virus) as it moves from one host to another.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mites spread among your colonies as they travel in the\nphoretic phase between hives on bees that drift among hives or robbers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Left unchecked, varroa mites and the viruses they spread will eventually cause the colony to collapse. The following video describes the Varroa life cycle:<\/p>\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed-youtube wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube\"><div class=\"lyte-wrapper\" title=\"Varroa spread, life cycle and population growth\" style=\"width:640px;max-width:100%;margin:5px auto;\"><div class=\"lyMe\" id=\"WYL_k6y9FqNw6y8\" itemprop=\"video\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/VideoObject\"><div><meta itemprop=\"thumbnailUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/i.ytimg.com\/vi\/k6y9FqNw6y8\/hqdefault.jpg\" \/><meta itemprop=\"embedURL\" content=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/k6y9FqNw6y8\" \/><meta itemprop=\"duration\" content=\"PT2M48S\" \/><meta itemprop=\"uploadDate\" content=\"2016-10-18T04:57:28Z\" \/><\/div><div id=\"lyte_k6y9FqNw6y8\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i.ytimg.com\/vi\/k6y9FqNw6y8\/hqdefault.jpg\" class=\"pL\"><div class=\"tC\"><div class=\"tT\" itemprop=\"name\">Varroa spread, life cycle and population growth<\/div><\/div><div class=\"play\"><\/div><div class=\"ctrl\"><div class=\"Lctrl\"><\/div><div class=\"Rctrl\"><\/div><\/div><\/div><noscript><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/k6y9FqNw6y8\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i.ytimg.com\/vi\/k6y9FqNw6y8\/0.jpg\" alt=\"Varroa spread, life cycle and population growth\" width=\"640\" height=\"340\" \/><br \/>Watch this video on YouTube<\/a><\/noscript><meta itemprop=\"description\" content=\"BeeAware: Bee Biosecurity Video Series. Video 5. Varroa spread, life cycle and population growth While Australia is currently free from Varroa, it is likely to enter and become established at some stage in the future. Understanding Varroa\u2019s life cycle and knowing what to look for will help us to detect it as soon as possible. DISCLAIMER: The material in this video clip is for general information only and no person should act, or fail to act on the basis of this material without first obtaining professional advice. Plant Health Australia and all persons acting for Plant Health Australia expressly disclaim liability with respect to anything done in reliance on this publication.\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"lL\" style=\"max-width:100%;width:640px;margin:5px auto;\"><\/div><figcaption><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Monitoring Varroa Mites<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The odds are very high that your colonies have some level of Varroa infestation. The purpose of monitoring Varroa is to determine the extent of any infestation. Armed with that knowledge, you can make an informed decision about whether to intervene.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Select a regular monitoring schedule (e.g., monthly). With a large apiary, check at least 10% of your hives for a representative sample. As a beginner with only a few colonies (10 or less), it&#8217;s better to monitor a much higher percentage, if not all, of your hives.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-flow wp-block-group-is-layout-flow\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container\">\n<p>There are several ways to determine if your colony is infested with varroa:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li>Visual inspection (not very reliable)<\/li><li>Uncapping drone brood<\/li><li>Sticky board<\/li><li>Alcohol\/Soap wash<\/li><li>Powdered sugar roll<\/li><\/ul>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>We&#8217;ll go over each of these methods. <strong>If you want to focus on the most effective methods, you can <a href=\"#alcoholwash\">skip down to the alcohol wash and the powdered sugar roll<\/a> which are similar.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Visual inspection<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>You may be able to spot Varroa with a visual inspection of\nthe hive. While this will alert you to their presence, a more precise detection\nmethod is needed to determine the extent of the infestation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You may see phoretic mites on the backs of some bees.&nbsp; However, since mites often attach to the underside of the bee, they may not be plainly visible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Some Varroa mites fall off bees and plummet to the bottom board. If you\u2019re using a screened bottom board, you can catch them on a pull-out drawer. (These screened boards also help keep small hive beetles and wax moth larva that fall to the bottom from damaging the colony.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A lot of other things drop to the bottom of the hive so it\nmay be hard to spot the mites. It\u2019s best to look within a couple of days of\ncleaning off the drawer so that mites are more visible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Look for spotty brood patterns and particularly, chewed brood. Chewed down brood occurs when the bees prematurely uncap the brood to remove pupae and larvae along with mites. It could be a sign of high infestation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you notice a sudden drop in the bee population, look for\nVarroa as a possible cause.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns has-2-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-layout-1 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<p>The open wounds created by Varroa increase the possibility of viral infections that exist within the colony such as Deformed Wing Virus (DFW). DFW may be apparent in the form of deformed wings or other abnormal deformities and appearances. DFW is a reliable indicator of high Varroa infestation. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"792\" src=\"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Honey_bee_with_Deformed_Wing_Virus_and_Varroa_destructor-1024x792.jpg\" alt=\"Honey bee with Deformed Wing Virus\" class=\"wp-image-1478\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Honey_bee_with_Deformed_Wing_Virus_and_Varroa_destructor-1024x792.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Honey_bee_with_Deformed_Wing_Virus_and_Varroa_destructor-300x232.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Honey_bee_with_Deformed_Wing_Virus_and_Varroa_destructor-768x594.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Honey_bee_with_Deformed_Wing_Virus_and_Varroa_destructor-1080x835.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>Honey bee with Deformed Wing Virus<br>Stefan de Konink [CC0]<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>The methods described next are designed to provide a more accurate assessment of Varroa levels than just looking through the hive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Uncapping Drone Brood<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>An uncapping fork (also called a cappings scratcher) is usually used to uncap cells to extract honey. You can also insert it under the cappings on the drone brood at a slightly downward angle to pull the brood out for inspection.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mites can be clearly visible against the white pupa. For a meaningful count, inspect at least 100 drone cells in a hive selected from different frames. You also look for any Varroa remaining in empty cells.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"650\" src=\"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/CSIRO_ScienceImage_7014_A_varroa_mite_Varroa_destructor_on_a_honeybee_pupa-1024x650.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1474\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/CSIRO_ScienceImage_7014_A_varroa_mite_Varroa_destructor_on_a_honeybee_pupa-1024x650.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/CSIRO_ScienceImage_7014_A_varroa_mite_Varroa_destructor_on_a_honeybee_pupa-300x190.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/CSIRO_ScienceImage_7014_A_varroa_mite_Varroa_destructor_on_a_honeybee_pupa-768x488.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/CSIRO_ScienceImage_7014_A_varroa_mite_Varroa_destructor_on_a_honeybee_pupa-1080x686.jpg 1080w, https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/CSIRO_ScienceImage_7014_A_varroa_mite_Varroa_destructor_on_a_honeybee_pupa.jpg 1788w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>Varroa destructor on a honey bee pupa<br>CSIRO [CC BY 3.0 (https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/3.0)]<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Generally, a count of 5% or less in the drone brood is\nconsidered a low to moderate infestation level. If your count is 20-25%, it\u2019s a\nheavy infestation and you should consider immediate steps to mitigate it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nationalbeeunit.com\/public\/BeeDiseases\/varroaCalculator.cfm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\">The National Bee Unit in the UK has an online Varroa Calculator<\/a> that you may find useful to assess the results of drone brood uncapping and natural mite drop. Keep in mind that you may need to adjust your input based on your geographic region.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Sticky Board<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>A sticky board is a non-absorbent sheet (preferably white) placed on the bottom board.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Coated with a thin layer of petroleum jelly or shortening (hence, sticky), it traps any mites that drop to the bottom of the hive. A screened bottom combined with a sliding drawer makes inspection easier. If you\u2019re using a solid bottom board, the sticky board should be covered with a screen to keep bees off the \u201csticky\u201d stuff.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You can make your own or purchase sticky boards from most beekeeping supply companies. Purchased sheets typically have preprinted grid lines to help you keep track of the count.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Arrange your sticky board and leave the hive alone for three\ndays so that any mite drop occurs naturally. After three days, remove the board\nand count the number of mites. Divide the number of mites by 3 to get an\naverage daily mite drop count.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The size of your hive is an essential factor in assessing a\nsticky board mite count. A count of 30 \u2013 40 per day for a \u201cstandard\u201d hive of 2\ndeeps and a couple of supers would indicate the need for mitigation. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<a id=\"alcoholwash\"><h3>Alcohol or Soap Wash and Powdered Sugar Roll<\/h3><\/a>\n\n\n\n<p>Two similar methods of doing a mite count are the alcohol or\nsoap wash and the powdered sugar roll. Besides using different materials to\nfree phoretic mites from bees for counting, the alcohol\/soap method kills the\nbees sampled whereas the powdered sugar roll disturbs the bees but leaves them\nalive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>(In the course of beekeeping, you\u2019re going to kill some bees\nby accident during hive inspections. We hate when that happens but have come to\naccept it. We prefer mite count methods that don\u2019t harm the bees.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Both methods require that you use about a \u00bd cup of bees from a brood frame. <strong>BE CAREFUL NOT TO TAKE THE QUEEN<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How To Do An Alcohol or Soap Wash (Equipment &amp; Instructions)<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-flow wp-block-group-is-layout-flow\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container\">\n<p>For the alcohol or soap wash, you&#8217;ll need:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li>Standard protective gear, especially a veil, smoker, and hive tool as you would for a hive inspection. This time you\u2019ll be removing some bees for the test.<\/li><li>One of the following:<ul><li><a aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Blythewood-Bee-Company-Double-Counter\/dp\/B07FRJQVNF\" target=\"_blank\">A varroa count double jar (here on Amazon<\/a>) which includes a mesh lid. ) If you&#8217;re so inclined, you can make a double jar. <a aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"http:\/\/scientificbeekeeping.com\/sick-bees-part-11-mite-monitoring-methods\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Randy Oliver provides instructions at ScientificBeekeping.com.<\/a> ) OR<\/li><\/ul><ul><li>Two mason jars with a solid lid and a mesh lid. You can make a mesh lid or buy one at <a aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/www.betterbee.com\/pest-management-and-medications\/vtl.asp\" target=\"_blank\">BettterBee.com<\/a> OR<\/li><\/ul><ul><li>&nbsp;<a aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Blythewood-Bee-Company-Veto-Pharma-EasyCheck\/dp\/B07FRP4TQ4\/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1XY9NRO6KV3YH&amp;keywords=varroa+easy+check&amp;qid=1562263224&amp;s=lawn-garden&amp;sprefix=varroa+eas%2Clawngarden%2C145&amp;sr=1-1\" target=\"_blank\">Varroa EasyCheck (here on Amazon<\/a>). The Varroa EasyCheck has its own measuring system, so read those instructions or <a aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=QxYE2LLTYAo\" target=\"_blank\">watch the manufacturer\u2019s video on YouTube<\/a>. Using its specially designed container, the washing method is slightly different to achieve the same results. <\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Winter windshield washer fluid (a low-suds soap) or better yet, a 50\/50 mixture of 70% isopropyl alcohol and water<\/li><li>A \u00bd cup measuring cup OR a jar marked for the \u00bd cup level to get about the right number of bees (there are an estimated 300 bees in a \u00bd cup) <\/li><li>A tub or bucket for collecting the bees. White is preferable as it makes it easier to do one last queen check.<\/li><\/ul>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 1<\/strong> \u2013 Using your hive tool and smoker, remove a frame of bees and brood from a brood box. <strong>INSPECT CAREFULLY TO MAKE SURE THE QUEEN IS NOT ON THE FRAME<\/strong>. If you spot the queen, move her to another frame, or select a different frame and put the queen frame back in the hive. (Seeing the queen will give you great comfort that you have not inadvertently included her in your sample.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 2<\/strong> \u2013 Dislodge the bees from the frame into your bee collection container. With the container on a solid surface, you can give it a good thump to drop the bees. Some of the bees will fly off back to the hive, and that&#8217;s okay. Take one more look for the queen if you haven\u2019t seen her yet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 3<\/strong> \u2013 With your measuring cup, scoop a \u00bd cup of bees and put them into the jar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 4<\/strong> \u2013 Pour enough alcohol mix or washer fluid into the jar about halfway or enough to cover the bees.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 5<\/strong> \u2013 Close the jar and shake vigorously for about a minute to dislodge mites from the bees.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 6<\/strong> \u2013 Using the mesh cover, drain the liquid into the other jar separating the bees from the wash and dislodged mites.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 7<\/strong> \u2013 Look at the bottom of the jar and count the mites that have settled in the liquid.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 8<\/strong> \u2013 Divide the number of mites counted by 300 (the estimated number of bees in a \u00bd cup) to the percentage of bees affected. For example, 6 mites \u00f7 300 bees = .02 = 2%. See information below on assessing the mite count.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Sugar Roll Equipment and Instructions<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-flow wp-block-group-is-layout-flow\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container\">\n<p>As we mentioned, the sugar roll is like the alcohol\/soap\nwash, except it doesn&#8217;t kill the bees. Much of the equipment needed is similar:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li>Standard protective gear, especially a veil, smoker, and hive tool as you would for a hive inspection so you can remove bees.<\/li><li>A jar with a mesh lid<\/li><li>Powdered sugar<\/li><li>Misting bottle with water<\/li><li>Tub or bucket (preferably white) to collect bees off a frame<\/li><li>A white plate for collecting sugar and mites after the roll. You may be able to use the tub\/bucket, but it may still have bees in it when you&#8217;re at the mite counting step.<\/li><\/ul>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Follow Steps 1 \u2013 4 from the alcohol wash method above to collect bees in your jar<\/strong>. The mesh lid will keep the bees in.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 5<\/strong> &#8211; Put enough powdered sugar in the jar to coat the bees \u2013 about a few tablespoons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 6<\/strong> \u2013 Shake and roll the jar vigorously to coat the bees thoroughly and dislodge the mites.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 7<\/strong> \u2013 Let the jar sit for about 3 \u2013 5 minutes. <strong>DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP<\/strong>. It will improve the mite fall resulting in a more accurate count.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 8<\/strong> \u2013 Shake the powdered sugar and mites through the mesh lid onto your white plate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 9<\/strong> \u2013 Using the mister, dissolve the powdered sugar. The reddish-brown mites will become visible against the white plate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 10<\/strong> &#8211; Count the mites.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 11<\/strong> \u2013 Divide the number of mites counted by 300 (the estimated number of bees in a \u00bd cup) to the percentage of bees affected. For example, 6 mites \u00f7 300 bees = .02 = 2%. See information below on assessing the mite count.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Step 12<\/strong> \u2013 Return the sampled bees to the hive. Their mates will clean the powdered sugar off them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This video from the Honey Bee Health Coalition demonstrates both the alcohol wash and sugar roll sampling methods:<\/p>\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed-youtube wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube\"><div class=\"lyte-wrapper\" title=\"How to Sample for Varroa Mites: Two Methods\" style=\"width:640px;max-width:100%;margin:5px auto;\"><div class=\"lyMe\" id=\"WYL_IgPfT9FQxLc\" itemprop=\"video\" itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/VideoObject\"><div><meta itemprop=\"thumbnailUrl\" content=\"https:\/\/i.ytimg.com\/vi\/IgPfT9FQxLc\/hqdefault.jpg\" \/><meta itemprop=\"embedURL\" content=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/IgPfT9FQxLc\" \/><meta itemprop=\"duration\" content=\"PT9M1S\" \/><meta itemprop=\"uploadDate\" content=\"2016-11-14T19:42:54Z\" \/><\/div><div id=\"lyte_IgPfT9FQxLc\" data-src=\"https:\/\/i.ytimg.com\/vi\/IgPfT9FQxLc\/hqdefault.jpg\" class=\"pL\"><div class=\"tC\"><div class=\"tT\" itemprop=\"name\">How to Sample for Varroa Mites: Two Methods<\/div><\/div><div class=\"play\"><\/div><div class=\"ctrl\"><div class=\"Lctrl\"><\/div><div class=\"Rctrl\"><\/div><\/div><\/div><noscript><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/IgPfT9FQxLc\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i.ytimg.com\/vi\/IgPfT9FQxLc\/0.jpg\" alt=\"How to Sample for Varroa Mites: Two Methods\" width=\"640\" height=\"340\" \/><br \/>Watch this video on YouTube<\/a><\/noscript><meta itemprop=\"description\" content=\"This video shows you how to use two sampling methods step-by-step: the powdered sugar shake method and the alcohol (or soap) wash method. Be sure to sample again after completing each treatment to make sure the treatment was effective. This is the second in a series of short videos from the Honey Bee Health Coalition on how to manage varroa mites successfully. Why should you effectively manage varroa mites in your honey bee colonies? Every honey bee colony in North America either has varroa mites or will in just a few months. When colonies are not treated, or are treated ineffectively, they weaken and may be more susceptible to other negative factors, such as pesticide damage, virus infections, and other maladies. Failure to control mites endangers not only your colonies but also colonies in other apiaries and feral honey bees in your area. Widespread colony deaths can cause major economic damage for beekeepers and harm essential agricultural pollination services. Whether you have a few colonies or you manage large apiaries, these videos show practical steps you can use to better control varroa mites. LINKS: The Honey Bee Health Coalition: https:\/\/honeybeehealthcoalition.org More varroa resources: https:\/\/honeybeehealthcoalition.org\/varroa\"><\/div><\/div><div class=\"lL\" style=\"max-width:100%;width:640px;margin:5px auto;\"><\/div><figcaption><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Assessing Mite Counts<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Keep in mind that, with these methods, the mite count only\nestimates the percentage of bees with phoretic mites. The higher this count,\nthe higher you can expect the mite count to be in the brood. Some suggest\ndoubling the mite count from the wash or sugar roll.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>So how many mites are too many? Researching the topic of\nacceptable thresholds indicates there is no one-size-fits-all answer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/honeybeehealthcoalition.org\/varroatool\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\">Honey Bee Health Coalition has an online Varroa Management Decision Tool here to help you decide.<\/a> By answering some questions, you can find what&#8217;s considered an acceptable threshold depending on the colony\u2019s phase. If your levels are acceptable, the tool provides preventative actions. If levels are above acceptable limits, seriously consider treatment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Generally, a mite count of 1% &#8211; 2% is acceptable. Mite counts between 2% and 3% suggest that you may want to take steps before the situation worsens. Greater than 3% indicates a high risk to your colony. This information provided in <a href=\"https:\/\/honeybeehealthcoalition.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/HBHC-Guide_Varroa_Interactive_7thEdition_June2018.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\">Honey Bee Health Coalition&#8217;s Guide to Effective Varroa Sampling &amp; Control is downloadable here.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Talk to other beekeepers in your area. Find out how they are\ndealing with Varroa and what their experience has been with different levels of\ninfestation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Determine the progression of varroa growth in your colonies\nwith periodic monitoring using a consistent method. Identifying the trend will\ngive you a better handle on the risk to your colonies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Managing Varroa<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>If you Google around the internet, you\u2019ll find a debate between proponents of actively controlling mite populations with various forms of treatment (particularly, chemical treatment) and those that believe in treatment free alternatives as being more natural and beneficial in the long run.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Even if you opt to treat for mites, many of the procedures used by treatment free beekeepers can help keep your mite count down and reduce your need to use chemical intervention. You can incorporate both into an Integrated Pest Management program.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Varroa Treatment Options<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>If you opt to chemically treat your hives, you can choose between synthetic or natural pesticides designed to primarily target the mites, not the bees. They are often referred to as miticides.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Synthetic miticides are man-made compounds not ordinarily found in nature; natural ones use organic acids or essential oils.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Do not be lulled into a false sense of safety by the word &#8220;natural&#8221;<\/strong>. Some of these materials can be harmful if not used properly.  For example, oxalic acid, while a naturally occurring substance, can be very harmful if you inhale the vapors. Use caution with all these  products. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Varroa Mite Treatment Comparison<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Common varroa mite treatments are compared in the table below. The information is intended as a general guideline. <strong>CAREFULLY READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS INCLUDED WITH EACH PRODUCT, ESPECIALLY REGARDING THE USE OF PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n<div id=\"footable_parent_2444\"\n         class=\" footable_parent ninja_table_wrapper loading_ninja_table wp_table_data_press_parent semantic_ui \">\n                <table data-ninja_table_instance=\"ninja_table_instance_0\" data-footable_id=\"2444\" data-filter-delay=\"1000\" aria-label=\"Varroa Miticides\"            id=\"footable_2444\"\n           data-unique_identifier=\"ninja_table_unique_id_580205123_2444\"\n           class=\" foo-table ninja_footable foo_table_2444 ninja_table_unique_id_580205123_2444 ui table  nt_type_legacy_table selectable striped vertical_centered  footable-paging-right ninja_table_pro\">\n                <colgroup>\n                            <col class=\"ninja_column_0 \">\n                            <col class=\"ninja_column_1 \">\n                            <col class=\"ninja_column_2 \">\n                            <col class=\"ninja_column_3 \">\n                            <col class=\"ninja_column_4 \">\n                            <col class=\"ninja_column_5 \">\n                            <col class=\"ninja_column_6 \">\n                    <\/colgroup>\n        <thead>\n<tr class=\"footable-header\">\n                                                                                                                        <th scope=\"col\"  class=\"ninja_column_0 ninja_clmn_nm_name \">Name<\/th><th scope=\"col\"  class=\"ninja_column_1 ninja_clmn_nm_active_ingredients \">Active Ingredients<\/th><th scope=\"col\"  class=\"ninja_column_2 ninja_clmn_nm_when_to_use \">When to use<\/th><th scope=\"col\"  class=\"ninja_column_3 ninja_clmn_nm_general_application_info \">General Application Info<\/th><th scope=\"col\"  class=\"ninja_column_4 ninja_clmn_nm_length_of_treatment \">Length of Treatment<\/th><th scope=\"col\"  class=\"ninja_column_5 ninja_clmn_nm_temperature_br_restriction \">Temperature Restriction<\/th><th scope=\"col\"  class=\"ninja_column_6 ninja_clmn_nm_use_during_honey_flow \">Use during honey flow?<\/th><\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n\n        <tr data-row_id=\"19\" class=\"ninja_table_row_0 nt_row_id_19\">\n            <td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.vita-europe.com\/beehealth\/products\/apistan\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Apistan\u00ae<\/a><\/td><td>Fluvalinate<\/td><td>Spring and autumn<\/td><td>Strips hung in the brood chamber. Bees contact and transfer active ingredient.<\/td><td>6 weeks<\/td><td>Above 50\u00b0F (10\u00b0C)<\/td><td>No. Can add honey supers 2 weeks after treatment.<\/td>        <\/tr>\n            <tr data-row_id=\"20\" class=\"ninja_table_row_1 nt_row_id_20\">\n            <td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.veto-pharma.com\/varroa-control\/46-apivar.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Apivar\u00ae<\/a><\/td><td>Amitraz<\/td><td>Spring and autumn<\/td><td>Strips hung in the brood chamber. Bees contact and transfer active ingredient.<\/td><td>42 - 56 days, not longer<\/td><td>None but bees should not be dormant.<\/td><td>No. Can add honey supers 2 weeks after treatment.<\/td>        <\/tr>\n            <tr data-row_id=\"21\" class=\"ninja_table_row_2 nt_row_id_21\">\n            <td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.animalhealth.bayer.ca\/en\/bees\/checkmite\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">CheckMite+\u00ae<\/a><\/td><td>Coumaphos<\/td><td>Spring and autumn<\/td><td>Strips hung in the brood chamber. Bees contact and transfer active ingredient.<\/td><td>42 to 45 days, not longer<\/td><td>None but bees should not be dormant.<\/td><td>No. Can add honey supers 2 weeks after treatment.<\/td>        <\/tr>\n            <tr data-row_id=\"22\" class=\"ninja_table_row_3 nt_row_id_22\">\n            <td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.veto-pharma.com\/varroa-control\/66-apilife-var.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">ApiLife Var\u00ae<\/a><\/td><td>Thymol, eucalyptys oil, L-menthol<\/td><td>Early spring and after honey harvest<\/td><td>Tablet broken in 4 pieces, each place on top bars at the edge of the brood nest to fumigate the hive.<\/td><td>3 consecutive applications: 1st - 7 to 10 days; 2nd - 7 to 10 days; 3rd - 12 days<\/td><td>Between 64\u00b0 and 95\u00b0 F (18\u00b0 and 35\u00b0 C).<\/td><td>No. Add honey supers 30 days after treatment.<\/td>        <\/tr>\n            <tr data-row_id=\"23\" class=\"ninja_table_row_4 nt_row_id_23\">\n            <td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.vita-europe.com\/beehealth\/products\/apiguard\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">ApiGuard\u00ae<\/a><\/td><td>Thymol<\/td><td>Spring and autumn<\/td><td>Place open tray (which may require a spacer) in the hive to expose thymol gel.  Bees contact gel and carry it through the hive.<\/td><td>2 consecutive treatments: 1st - 10 to days; 2nd - 2  to 4 weeks<\/td><td>Between 60\u00b0  and 105\u00b0F (15\u00b0  and 40\u00b0C). Avoid during nectar flows.<\/td><td>No. Manufacturer website is silent. Some forums indicate waiting 2 weeks.<\/td>        <\/tr>\n            <tr data-row_id=\"24\" class=\"ninja_table_row_5 nt_row_id_24\">\n            <td><a href=\"http:\/\/nodglobal.com\/formic-pro\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Formic Pro\u00ae<\/a><\/td><td>Formic acid<\/td><td>Spring and autumn<\/td><td>Strips placed on top bars in brood boxes fumigate the hive with formic acid.<\/td><td>2 options: 14 day or 20 day<\/td><td>Between 50\u00b0 and 85\u00b0 F (10\u00b0 and 29\u00b0 C).<\/td><td>Yes.<\/td>        <\/tr>\n            <tr data-row_id=\"25\" class=\"ninja_table_row_6 nt_row_id_25\">\n            <td><a href=\"https:\/\/betatec.com\/hopguard\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hop Guard II\u00ae<\/a><\/td><td>Hop compounds<\/td><td>Any time of year but best with less brood present<\/td><td>Hang strips over brood frame top bar so it hangs between frames.<\/td><td>30 days<\/td><td>Between 52\u00b0 and 92\u00b0 F (11\u00b0 and 33\u00b0 C).<\/td><td>Yes. Don't harvest wax and honey from brood boxes.<\/td>        <\/tr>\n            <tr data-row_id=\"73\" class=\"ninja_table_row_7 nt_row_id_73\">\n            <td><a href=\"https:\/\/betatec.com\/hopguard-3\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">HopGuard 3\u00ae<\/a><\/td><td>Hop compounds<\/td><td>Any time of year but best with less brood present; follow with another miticide before overwintering<\/td><td>Hang strips between brood frames<\/td><td>14 days<\/td><td>Above 50\u00b0F (10\u00b0C)<\/td><td>Yes.<\/td>        <\/tr>\n            <tr data-row_id=\"26\" class=\"ninja_table_row_8 nt_row_id_26\">\n            <td><a href=\"http:\/\/nodglobal.com\/mite-away-quick-strips\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">MiteAway Quick Strips\u00ae<\/a><\/td><td>Formic acid<\/td><td>Spring and autumn<\/td><td>Strips placed on top bars in brood boxes fumigate the hive with formic acid.<\/td><td>7 or 21 day treatment options<\/td><td>Between 50\u00b0 and 85\u00b0 F (10\u00b0 and 29\u00b0 C).<\/td><td>Yes.<\/td>        <\/tr>\n            <tr data-row_id=\"27\" class=\"ninja_table_row_9 nt_row_id_27\">\n            <td><a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=65g78v_p-MY\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Oxalic Acid<\/a><\/td><td>Oxalic acid dehydrate<\/td><td>Anytime there is no capped brood as it does not kill mites in cells<\/td><td>2 methods of treatment: dribble method mix of oxalic acid and light sugar syrup OR fumigation with a vaporizer.<\/td><td>3 consecutive weekly treatments recommeded<\/td><td>Between 35\u00b0 and 55\u00b0 F (2\u00b0 and 13\u00b0 C).<\/td><td>No.<\/td>        <\/tr>\n    <\/tbody><!--ninja_tobody_rendering_done-->\n    <\/table>\n                    <style type=\"text\/css\" id='ninja_table_custom_css_2444'>\n                        #footable_2444  {\n    font-family: ;\n    font-size: px;\n    }\n\n    \n                <\/style>\n                \n    \n    \n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n<p>NOTE: Product names link to the manufacturer&#8217;s or distributor&#8217;s website for more detailed information except for oxalic acid (a generic product) which links to a video from the Honey Bee Health Coalition.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/honeybeehealthcoalition.org\/varroa\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\">Honey Bee Health Coalition\u2019s website also has instructional videos for most of the products listed above.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-flow wp-block-group-is-layout-flow\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container\">\n<p>As we mentioned, <strong>follow all safety instructions<\/strong> for any miticide which may include, among other things:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li>Wear chemical or acid-resistant gloves<\/li><li>Use protective eye gear<\/li><li>Avoid inhaling fumes (best done by wearing a mask approved for your application)<\/li><li>Avoid contact with your eyes, skin, or clothing<\/li><li>Wash up thoroughly after using miticides<\/li><li>Store and dispose of any chemicals properly.<\/li><\/ul>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Oxalic acid vaporizers get extremely hot<\/strong> with temperatures well above 300\u00b0F (148.8\u00b0C). Beeswax and the wooden frames in your hive are both flammable. Check to make sure your vaporizer is not touching any burr comb or frame. You may want to consider a vaporizer that keeps the heat outside the hive (such as the<a aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Blythewood-Bee-Company-Commercial-Vaporizer\/dp\/B07FRL3HZM\/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=provap&amp;qid=1575319741&amp;sr=8-3\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"> ProVap 110 available here<\/a> on Amazon). Vaporizers are expensive; you may want to skip them altogether and apply oxalic acid via the &#8220;dribble method&#8221; which is covered in <a aria-label=\"this Honey Bee Health Coalition video (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=65g78v_p-MY\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">this Honey Bee Health Coalition video<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-flow wp-block-group-is-layout-flow\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container\">\n<p><strong>Check whether a product is approved for use at your location<\/strong>. For example, as of this writing:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li>ApiLife Var is not registered in CA, AK, and DC per the Veto-pharma website.<\/li><li>California requires a Grower\u2019s ID issued by the Agriculture Commissioner for Apiguard according to one supplier.<\/li><\/ul>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>You may see the names oxalic acid and formic acid and wonder\n\u201cwhat the heck is \u2018natural\u2019 about that?\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li>Oxalic acid (also called wood bleach&#8230;WHAT??) is an organic compound that occurs naturally in many foods including spinach, broccoli, cucumbers, brussel sprouts, and rhubarb. (Though mom never told me to finish my oxalic acid before I left the dinner table.)<\/li><li>According to <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Formic_acid\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Wikipedia<\/a>, formic acid &#8220;occurs naturally, most notably in ants&#8221; and &#8220;is a naturally occurring component of the atmosphere primarily due to forest emissions.&#8221; In addition to killing varroa mites, it eliminates tracheal mites, another honey bee pest.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>In choosing any of the products, familiarize yourself with the drawbacks associated with them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-flow wp-block-group-is-layout-flow\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container\">\n<p>For example:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li>All the synthetic miticides leave some amount of residue in honey and wax. Do not use them during honey flow with supers on. In some cases, it will dissipate over time. <\/li><li>Treatments can have some negative impact on the bees, including impaired queen reproduction and increased mortality. The risk of these issues tends to be more significant when using treatments at temperatures above the recommended limit.<\/li><li>Both Apistan\u00ae and CheckMite+\u00ae are not recommended in New York due to \u201cadverse effects to bees, persistent residues in wax, and mite resistance.\u201d <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/pollinator.cals.cornell.edu\/sites\/pollinator.cals.cornell.edu\/files\/shared\/varroa%20mites-%20a%20guide%20to%20control%20methods%20in%20NY_2018.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">See Varroa Mites: A Guide to Control Methods in New York here.<\/a><\/li><\/ul>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>When purchasing treatments, be aware of how much you\u2019ll need to treat your apiary. Order too little and you may not adequately address your mite issue. Over order and you might end up with product that you can&#8217;t use before its expiration date.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>It\u2019s good practice to vary your treatment options so as not to induce mite resistance over time.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Choosing A Treatment Option<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Chemical treatments come with recommendations for when they are best used. Temperature, colony population status and the presence of honey supers are key considerations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote\"><p><strong>See our article about <a href=\"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/best-varroa-mite-treatment\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">how to choose the best varroa mite treatment<\/a> for more information. It includes a decision tree to help narrow down your choices based on circumstances.<\/strong><\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p>Combine treatment free practices described below with your\ntreatment options as part of an Integrated Pest Management plan. Minimizing the\nmite count with these cultural methods may reduce the need for miticides.\nThat\u2019s a good thing!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-flow wp-block-group-is-layout-flow\"><div class=\"wp-block-group__inner-container\">\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center\"><strong>Here are some Varroa treatments to consider:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns has-kb-palette-3-background-color has-background is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-layout-2 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-vertically-aligned-center is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<center><iframe style=\"width:120px;height:240px;\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" src=\"\/\/ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com\/widgets\/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&amp;OneJS=1&amp;Operation=GetAdHtml&amp;MarketPlace=US&amp;source=ac&amp;ref=tf_til&amp;ad_type=product_link&amp;tracking_id=fireflyfiel05-20&amp;marketplace=amazon&amp;region=US&amp;placement=B08V1ZKRZJ&amp;asins=B08V1ZKRZJ&amp;linkId=4336b26d28c695a64bc19dd3aa1fbfea&amp;show_border=false&amp;link_opens_in_new_window=false&amp;price_color=333333&amp;title_color=0066c0&amp;bg_color=ffffff\" frameborder=\"0\">\n    <\/iframe><\/center>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-vertically-aligned-center is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<center><iframe style=\"width:120px;height:240px;\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" src=\"\/\/ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com\/widgets\/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&amp;OneJS=1&amp;Operation=GetAdHtml&amp;MarketPlace=US&amp;source=ac&amp;ref=tf_til&amp;ad_type=product_link&amp;tracking_id=fireflyfiel05-20&amp;marketplace=amazon&amp;region=US&amp;placement=B08V1YR5N3&amp;asins=B08V1YR5N3&amp;linkId=1d8ac2f8d4f4cb7b4f99b310799e7ff2&amp;show_border=false&amp;link_opens_in_new_window=false&amp;price_color=333333&amp;title_color=0066c0&amp;bg_color=ffffff\" frameborder=\"0\">\n    <\/iframe><\/center>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-vertically-aligned-center is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<center><iframe style=\"width:120px;height:240px;\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" src=\"\/\/ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com\/widgets\/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&amp;OneJS=1&amp;Operation=GetAdHtml&amp;MarketPlace=US&amp;source=ac&amp;ref=tf_til&amp;ad_type=product_link&amp;tracking_id=fireflyfiel05-20&amp;marketplace=amazon&amp;region=US&amp;placement=B01M0H2R13&amp;asins=B01M0H2R13&amp;linkId=0d20abccc70fc6160d74d8091600e30a&amp;show_border=false&amp;link_opens_in_new_window=false&amp;price_color=333333&amp;title_color=0066c0&amp;bg_color=ffffff\" frameborder=\"0\">\n    <\/iframe><\/center>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Varroa Treatment Free Options<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Some beekeepers may have a strict definition of &#8220;treatment-free&#8221; that includes <em>any<\/em> manipulation of the hive. For our purposes here, we are using a more limited meaning. &#8220;Treatment&#8221; refers only to the use of chemicals and compounds, whether synthetic or natural, like those described above. &#8220;Treatment free&#8221; refers to things you can do without chemicals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Use Screened Bottom Boards<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Instead of a solid bottom board, use a screened bottom\nboard. Varroa (and other pests such as small hive beetles and wax moth larva)\nthat drop from the hive are unable to crawl back up or attach themselves to\nbees.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Screened bottom boards do not have a significant impact on\nmite counts but may provide marginal help.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Adding an easily accessible sticky board helps in monitoring\nVarroa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Drone Brood Management<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Varroa reproduce more in drone cells because of the extended development period. Many beekeepers remove capped drone cells to lower the mite count in the hive. You can cut out and dispose of many capped drone cells or use drone frames as a trap. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Plastic drone frames (usually green for easy identification)\nare available from most bee supply companies. These frames are embossed with\nlarge cell configurations inducing the bees to build drone cells for the queen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Once the drone cells are capped, remove the drone frame, and\nplace it in the freezer for a day or so. Freezing will kill the larvae and any\nmites. Return the frame to the hive, and the bees will clean them out. The\ncells can then be reused to trap more drone brood.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You can <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"http:\/\/scientificbeekeeping.com\/fighting-varroa-biotechnical-tactics-ii\/\" target=\"_blank\">follow Randy Oliver\u2019s design at ScientificBeekeeping.com<\/a> and build your drone frames (the Oliver Trap Frame) to achieve the same results. This frame provides a small section of foundation at the top for honey storage. The lower part is a foundationless section and usually ends up with drone brood.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Be careful not to let the drone brood emerge (along with the\nmites). Freeze it first!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Brood Interruption\/Requeening<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Breaking the brood cycle eliminates brood cells for a while,\ngiving the mites no place to reproduce. Combined with average mite drop and bee\ngrooming of phoretic mites, the growth of the mite population is arrested.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You can remove the queen from the hive and cage her\ntemporarily or move her to another box with some attendant bees. Reunite the\nqueen with the colony after about a week. Having limited her egg laying will\nbreak the brood cycle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>An alternative is to replace the queen with a new one,\npreferably from Varroa resistant stock, which not only breaks the brood cycle\nbut can improve the genetic makeup of the colony.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Artificial Swarm\/Splits<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Swarming is a natural bee behavior. The queen leaves the colony with a lot of workers and establishes a new colony elsewhere. Bees left behind to raise a new queen with the eggs and brood in the original hive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The new colony will be without brood in their new home while the bees build out comb for egg laying. Without brood cells, there will be no new varroa for a while.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In the old colony, the brood cycle is interrupted until a\nnew queen can be raised, mated, and begin laying eggs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Beekeepers achieve similar effects with an artificial swarm (a\ntype of hive split). If you\u2019re a new beekeeper, you\u2019ll need extra hive\nequipment to accomplish this.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The best time to split is during a colony\u2019s spring\npopulation increase. Do this only with healthy colonies and in time for both\ngroups to build up for the winter<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ideally, you&#8217;ll have queen cells for the bees to raise a\nqueen. If not, you can introduce a mated queen to the moved hive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This step can also prevent a colony from swarming (and\nlosing half your bees) and has the added bonus of giving you an inexpensive new\ncolony.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>One of our hives swarmed this year, but we were fortunate\nenough to recapture them and create a new colony. It was like getting a free\nbee package!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Varroa Resistant Bees<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Consider getting mite-resistant bees or introducing a mite-resistant queen to change your colonies&#8217; genetic makeup.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/content.ces.ncsu.edu\/comparison-of-russian-and-italian-honey-bees\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\">According to a study at NC State<\/a>, Russian bees are more resistant to Varroa than Italian honey bees.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Breeders have been developing Varroa Sensitive Hygiene (VSH) bees that can be bred into any race. These bees exhibit behavior that helps control the mite population. They will pull out infested brood preventing mites from maturing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote\"><p>The American Association for the Advancement of Science has an interesting article about breeding varroa-resistant bees:<\/p><p> <strong><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sciencemag.org\/news\/2019\/07\/breeders-toughen-bees-resist-deadly-mites\" target=\"_blank\">Breeders toughen up bees to resist deadly mites<\/a><\/strong> <\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p>This year we got a package of Saskatraz bees developed by The Saskatraz Hybrid Project. <a href=\"http:\/\/www.saskatraz.com\/pages\/availability.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\">According to their website,<\/a> Saskatraz stock is bred for honey production, wintering ability, and resistance to mites and brood diseases. We&#8217;ll see how it goes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Powdered Sugar Dusting<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Some beekeepers dust the bees with powdered sugar. Sugar\ncollects on the bees causing mites to drop. Bees also remove sugar from each\nother and, in the process, dislodge Varroa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Technically, I guess this is a form of treatment, but it\ninvolves no chemicals and doesn\u2019t harm the bees. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Bee Gym (Really?)<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>UK-based Vita Bee Health makes a chemical-free varroa grooming aid called the Bee Gym <a href=\"https:\/\/www.vita-europe.com\/beehealth\/products\/bee-gym\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" aria-label=\" (opens in a new tab)\">explained on their website.<\/a> In theory, bees knock off mites by rubbing on various parts of the device.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I have no idea if it works, but if you&#8217;re serious about treatment-free beekeeping, it may be worth trying.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Limit Robbing and Drifting<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Varroa mites can hitch a ride into one of your colonies on a\nrobber or drifting bee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To minimize drifting, vary the angle\/direction of hive openings if you have space. Bees are great navigators but can easily slide into a neighboring hive in error.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Even without the risk of varroa infestation, you should protect your hives&#8217; general safety with robbing prevention. <a href=\"\/nectar-dearth\/\"><strong>Our article on Summer Nectar Dearth provides details on robbing prevention<\/strong><\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Record Keeping<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Doing all these tests for Varroa will be meaningless if you don&#8217;t track the data. Record the timing and results of all your sampling and treatments for future reference. It&#8217;s the only way to monitor how your hives are doing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote\"><p>See our article  <strong><a href=\"\/beekeeping-record-keeping\/\">Record Keeping For Beekeepers<br>(A Guide To Why, What &amp; How) <\/a><\/strong> for more information.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Conclusion<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Varroa mite infestation is a serious threat to the health and viability of your colonies. Take the time to learn as much as you can to make informed choices.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The aptly named Varroa destructor mite is virtually unavoidable. Learn how to monitor and manage it to minimize its impact and maintain healthy, surviving colonies.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2431,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_kad_blocks_custom_css":"","_kad_blocks_head_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_body_custom_js":"","_kad_blocks_footer_custom_js":"","_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[6],"tags":[],"taxonomy_info":{"category":[{"value":6,"label":"Bees"}]},"featured_image_src_large":["https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Varroa-mite-magnified-1024x703.jpg",1024,703,true],"author_info":{"display_name":"Melanie","author_link":"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/author\/melanie\/"},"comment_info":0,"category_info":[{"term_id":6,"name":"Bees","slug":"bees","term_group":0,"term_taxonomy_id":6,"taxonomy":"category","description":"","parent":0,"count":12,"filter":"raw","term_icon":null,"cat_ID":6,"category_count":12,"category_description":"","cat_name":"Bees","category_nicename":"bees","category_parent":0}],"tag_info":false,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2428"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2428"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2428\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2431"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2428"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2428"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beekeepingfornewbies.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2428"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}